Blogging Life from abroad

Fort Bou-Jerif

2009-12-23T15:43:00.000+11:00

Rob's Blog- Fort Bou-Jerif

Fort Bou-Jerif

After leaving Western Sahara, we had more freedom to travel and explore the inland areas without a fear of finding landmines. We decided to try an old French Foreign Legion fort in the high desert.



	We decided the freezing coastal winds were too much and we found inland campsites from here on out. Here, we used the sand to bury the edges of our tent and try to keep the cold air out.



	Cactus is a major crop of the area and here is a local making the rounds with the help of their donkey.



	A local mosque on a mountaintop filled with succulents and cacti.



	Work with what you have. Since no trees grow here the locals use rocks as fence posts.



	Here is the road passing by Fort Bou-Jerif. We spent two days here in the nearby luxury campment.



	One of many old citadels perched on a mountaintop as we make our way back to the coast.



	The misty mountains of a coastal valley.

The deeper we went into Morocco the more we fell in love with the country, its people and the food. Coincidently, we just received an invitation from Peace Corps to serve in Morocco and would be happy if our site was a little Berber village like Tafraoute, which is our next stop, was the coldest night of our trip and the last time we slept in our tent.

Thanks for reading and please leave a comment.

Robert J Kent Jr- robjkentjr@gmail.com
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Tale of two cities

2009-12-18T11:45:00.001+11:00

Rob's Blog- Tale of two cities

Tale of two cities

The two cities of cities of Nouadhibou, Mauritania and Dakhla, Morocco are similar in regards to their geography, resources and culture. The major difference between them seems to be the governance of the two countries, which immediately noticeable as we entered Dakhla.



	Here is a shot of Nouadhibou taken from the lighthouse. You can make out the iron ore refinery through the haze, which adds a nice purplish tint to all the dunes downwind or it.



	There is a rumour about why there are so many beached ships. Supposedly one ran aground in a storm. All the other captains heard of the insurance payout so decided to do the same. It was only after this they discovered that intentional destruction is not covered.



	This thin strip of water adds about two hours of driving to get around and into the city which lies out on the end of the peninsula.



	This is the vegetable market in Mauritania. You cannot really make them out but there are flies on everything.



	Four hours north is this vegetable market in Morocco. The differences in the city infrastructure were even starker. Morocco even had sidewalks and a seaside promenade!



	The only problem with Morocco is all of the European tourists. This was the first crowded campsite we encountered.



	This little door at the back of a hotel is the only place in Western Sahara to buy beer for take away. I have never been to a speakeasy before so this was an experience.

We instantly fell in love with Morocco when we entered Dakhla but it was really the endless variety of food in the markets that made our hearts melt. Good thing too because now we seem to spend every coming night .freezing in the desert where just two weeks ago, we were sweating to death.

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Banc d'Arguin National Park

2009-12-15T04:09:00.000+11:00

Rob's Blog- Banc d'Arguin National Park

Banc d'Arguin National Park

After about a week of sand, the cold, dark blue water of the Atlantic Ocean was a welcome sight but we had one more sand dune to make it through before we could take a swim. After that we enjoyed another couple of days lounging on the beach while fishing and bird watching.



	We saw a pass in a large sand dune but were devastated to discover it was soft sand and swallowed the car up to the axel. It took about an hour of digging and letting the tires down to get us out.



	After our night stuck in the sand, we set out in the general direction the sign pointed to find the coast.



	We ended up staying at the town of Iwik, which is a little fishing village that survives off a solar powered desalination plant.



	A day's haul of fish from one boat. The catch from these rich fisheries mostly end up being flash frozen and shipped to Europe.



	A late return from a day of fishing. We did not see a single high capacity ship here; the entire fleet was all wind powered boats.



	The sunset followed by an early moon.



	David and Peta walking back to our camp in the desert.

Unfortunately, it was too late in the season to see the peak of migrating birds from the shore (we could have paid a fortune to hire a boat but passed). After a night here we visited the two very similar cities of Nouadhibou and Dakhla.

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Crossing the Sahara

2009-12-10T13:09:00.001+11:00

Rob's Blog- Crossing the Sahara

Crossing the Sahara

After a quick stopover in Atar to restock supplies and try to buy some more local currency, we set off across the Sahara Desert to the coast. With a GPS it was a breeze but I can only imagine how bad the situation would be if something happened in the middle of nowhere.



	Wikipedia says this monolith called Ben Amera is the second largest in the world. The largest is Uluru in Australia, which after visiting this one, we did not feel like making the long pilgrimage to go see.



	The morning sun breaking over the horizon and catching the rock face.



	The crawling sand dunes as they slowly move around the rock.



	This photo is to give an idea of how large this rock is. If you look down to the right, you can barely make out our camp and I am only about a third of the way up the monolith.



	Our second day we came across a lot more sand tracks but the wind was starting to pick up and wipe away our road.



	After almost three days of driving, this convoy of cars were the only other people we saw. They must have paid a fortune for this high class tour.



	Coming out of the desert, Bon Lanuar is the first city you come across. Does not look like much but we were happy to see people again.

I really do love the desert and even though we only saw a small portion of its vastness, we were relieved to be back on the main road. Our next stop is the Banc d'Arguin National Park and the two million migrant shorebirds that stop there.

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Terjit Oasis

2009-12-06T08:21:00.001+11:00

Rob's Blog- Terjit Oasis

Terjit Oasis

After a week of seeing nothing but sand, we could have easily mistaken the Terjit Oasis for a mirage. Mirage or not, the oasis is hidden in a long valley where the high rock formations channel water through a small portion of it to form a postcard paradise.



	This was our campsite along the creek for a night. Cool and relaxing with excellent service; all the food and drinks were brought to our tent.



	I decided to take a quick dip after lunch.



	The rock face is the purification system and the bucket is where the water is stored. A bit different from a tap.



	This is where the water enters the valley, as you can see there is not much life outside this area.



	While driving to see some of the other surrounding villages we came across the herdsmen leading their flock down to another valley.



	A village and dry well that were not as blessed with water.



	A shelter and its inhabitant along the side of the road.

We had heard stories of how beautiful this area of Mauritania was but did not believe it until we were there. Reluctant to leave, we now needed to cross the Sahara and get back on the main coastal highway going North.

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Chinguetti and Ouadane

2009-12-02T07:05:00.001+11:00

Rob's Blog- Chinguetti and Ouadane

Chinguetti and Ouadane

Every overlander coming down from Europe said we had to visit the towns of Chinguetti and Ouadane. They are both enclaves that cling to life in some of the most inhospitable terrain on the planet.



	Both towns sit on top of high plateaus and this photo shows us perching to the side of one as we wind, slowly, up the trail.



	The main street of Chinguetti.



	I have heard of snow drifts coming up to the windows but this is the first time I have seen it happening with sand.



	Ouadane was a Portuguese trading post established in 1487 and it is now a World Heritage Site.



	Sunrise on an abandoned building overlooking Ouadane.



	Going back to Atar we took the low road through the desert dunes. David is letting the air out of the tires to get better traction in the sand.



	Peta taking a walk on a dune.

We visited these places in October and the weather was perfect but I cannot imagine living here at the peak of summer. However, the oasis of Terjit is a place I would not mind spending my summer days eating dates and swimming.

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Finished grad school, so now what?

2009-11-30T06:47:00.000+11:00

Rob's Blog- Finished grad school, so now what?

	Finished grad school, so now what?

	Hello Everyone, Rasa and I have just finished graduate school at Australian National University and are back in the States until April 2010. I graduated with a master's in Environmental Management and Development and Rasa with a master's in Applied Anthropology and Participatory Development. We will use the next couple of months to relax and look for development work abroad. If we do not find anything, we have a backup adventure to tide us over. As for work, we currently have our resumes in at Peace Corps, USAID, the State Department, UNDP and UNESCO. These jobs sometimes take up to two years to get through the hiring process so we are waiting. While we are doing this we are extending our search to short-term contracts with smaller organizations like Action Against Hunger, ACTED, Care or any others you could recommend. We really have no preference as to where we end up, just that it is someplace worth our while. If we do not find anything, then we plan to do the London to Mongolia Rally but take our time to rubberneck. While passing through these countries, we will also be knocking on doors and looking for work in person. Plus, we need more material for our blogs, especially now that Rasa will be documenting future adventures in video (inspired by Sonia). If interested, you can subscribe to receive her updates at robrasa.com/herblog (just enter your email in the upper right box). In the mean time, Rasa and I will both finish our Africa blog posts and then go through our year in the South Pacific before starting our next road trip in April. I will catch up on our route map through Africa as well, which was last updated in Cameroon. We will also make a trip to the West Coast some time after February to visit friends and family, until then we are staying in NY. Lastly, by popular demand we will be publishing a photo journal of our Africa trip. I'll let you know when it is up in our book section. So please keep reading and commenting on my blog, it motivates me to keep it going. As always, thank you for that.

	Thanks for reading and please leave a comment. Robert J Kent Jr- robjkentjr@gmail.com Environmental Resource Policy Adviser www.R ob R asa.com Voice Mail: +1 (631) 458-1119 Skype ID: rob-rasa Sharing:

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Mauritania: Nouakchott to Atar

2009-11-26T05:42:00.001+11:00

Rob's Blog- Nouakchott to Atar

Mauritania: Nouakchott to Atar

After the worst border crossing of our trip, which you can read about in Rasa's Blog, we truly arrived in the Sahara Desert. We made a quick stop in Nouakchott, the capital, to restock and then headed deep into the desert to Atar.



	The local fishing fleet, which stretches the entire reach of the beach.



	Keeping the fish fresh. Some of the bigger fish in this market are bought and then shipped up to Europe by truck.



	This guy was exhausted and took a nap in the fishing nets.



	A mosque set against a clear blue sky.



	The entire floor here is just sand so instead of trying to build around it, why not use it as part of the theme?



	The next day we went inland and North to Atar. After arriving that night we woke to this sunrise over the town.



	Instead of pitching our broken tent (a pole snapped and the zipper doesn't work because of sand) we started sleeping in khaimas.

We were happy to be back in North Africa with the famous Arab hospitality that we grew to love in the Middle East. Our next destinations are the small outposts of Chinguetti and Ouadane and more sand (the country is one big sandbox).

Robert J Kent Jr- robjkentjr@gmail.com
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Oiseaux Djoudj National Park

2009-11-21T13:18:00.000+11:00

Rob's Blog- Oiseaux Djoudj National Park

Oiseaux Djoudj National Park

Parc national des oiseaux du Djoudj roughly translates to the National Park Bird Sanctuary, which easily had the largest diversity of wildlife we saw on this trip. However, any joy we had at the park was more than wiped out at the Rosso border crossing.



	Sunrise and the morning commute into work.



	The nesting area for the White Pelican. I do not know how they keep their eggs from getting stepped on.



	They seem so graceful in the air and water but on land they just stumble and wobble about.



	An eagle with a freshly caught fish in its talons.



	We scared this large tusker coming around the corner in our boat. Pumbaa the warthog really is my favourite Disney character.



	This poor guy has a long way to walk to the nearest village.



	Mauritania does not allow the sale of alcohol so David is filling up the pirate's nook with a secret stash of beer to smuggle across the border. If you want to read about that miserable crossing check out Rasa's Blog.

This estuary was the last major body of fresh water we will see until Morocco. Once we crossed the Senegal River on the Rosso ferry, we were truly, fully and finally into the Sahara Desert.

Robert J Kent Jr- robjkentjr@gmail.com
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Saint-Louis

2009-11-16T10:41:00.001+11:00

Rob's Blog- Saint-Louis

Saint-Louis

Saint-Louis was one of the first European settlements in West Africa and the capital of Senegal and Mauritania at one point. Those must have been the days because now it is a colourful but sleepy town that had some great beach camping.



	This is the bridge across the lagoon at high tide. The Zebra Bar is just by that tower on the left.



	We started to see an abundance of birdlife here, with me finally getting a decent shot of flamingos.



	I spent fifteen minutes terrorizing the crab trying to get this picture.



	We saw all sorts of strange relationships in Senegal and Gambia but this one beat them all.



	The main bridge on to the island of Saint-Louis. This was only one part of the town that could have used a new coat of paint.



	It never hurts to ask.



	The beauty and color of an alleyway in Saint-Louis

It was so nice to have cool nights and comfortable days again, especially on such a beautiful beach. Our next destination is the bird watching mecca of Oiseaux du Djoudj National Park before doing the worst border crossing in all of Africa.

Robert J Kent Jr- robjkentjr@gmail.com
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Finishing the Dakar Rally

2009-10-30T20:46:00.001+11:00

Rob's Blog- Finishing the Dakar Rally

Finishing the Dakar Rally

We crossed back into Senegal and spent one night at Popenguine before going to Dakar. After crawling in traffic for hours to get to the airport, we decided to have lunch and head to Lac Rose to sleep.



	Welcome to Kaolack, officially the dirtiest city in all of Africa.



	Nothing like a fresh oyster respite before heading back out in the gnarling traffic. Thinking we were smart, we took some back streets only to get hopelessly lost in the suburbs of Dakar.



	We finally made it just before sunset to the lake. Lac Rose is where the Dakar Rally finishes up and is known for the colour of its water. At certain times of the year, it will be a brilliant light pink. Now is not the time.



	The salt quarry is how all the people are employed here in the off season. They pull mountains of the stuff out of the water.



	All packed up and ready for export. Think twice before shaking that container of sea salt next time.



	They scrape the salt off the bottom of the lake and fill up the boats.



	The wind picked up and caught these kids out on the salt flats.

We were a bit sad at not getting to see the famous slave islands off Dakar but we got over it as soon as we were back on the open road. Our next stop is the very Carib city of Saint-Louis.

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Sukuta 'beach' Camping

2009-10-16T22:58:00.001+11:00

Rob's Blog- Sukuta 'beach' Camping

Sukuta 'beach' Camping

We made it to Sukuta Camping, near the beach resorts of Serrekunda, and collapsed for a week. Other than our daytrip to Abuko Nature Reserve, I did not take many pictures but let me assure you that we did eat like kings at all the fancy expat restaurants.



	The perfect holiday beach but it is the night time activities that make the tourists change their return tickets. Let us just say we learned something new about foreign females and strapping locals.



	The hiking trail through the nature reserve. We were told not to linger on the walkway because of crocodiles.



	One of several 2m (6ft) long monitor lizards that scared us to death while walking through the forest. This guy was just a 1m (3ft) baby.



	I am almost certain this is a Red Colobus Monkey but it sure looks like a baby chimpanzee.



	If I only had a macro lens these bugs would have been the highlight of my trip. Their colors were absolutely stunning.



	Love must be in the air with the camp dogs. Can you guess which one is Lilliput and which one is Adonis?



	This is Dean and the bike he has ridden from South Africa to The Gambia. The night he arrived, we went out with his mercenary friends from Sierra Leone. The rest of that story stays forever in the many bars of Serrenkunda we visited.

Just so glad to be speaking English, eating great food, and sleeping in cool weather again, this was longest we stayed in one spot for the whole trip. Sad to leave, we set out for Dakar, Senegal and passed through the dirtiest city of our trip (a week of firsts).

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Janjanbureh (Georgetown)

2009-10-13T13:38:00.000+11:00

Rob's Blog- Janjanbureh (Georgetown)

Janjanbureh (Georgetown)

After exchanging some US dollars in Basse (the first place to exchange them at a fair rate), we made a stop on the island of Georgetown. Except for all the punk kids, who claim to be guides and do not leave you in peace, the place was worth at least one night of looking around and a quick trip down the river to see some of those rare, fabled birds of the area.



	A welcome sign to The Gambia with a nice reminder that this former British colony now drives on the right side of the road.



	This ferry uses a cable to pull itself across the river. I wondered where we would end up if it broke.



	Another spider bite that looks a lot worse than it is.



	Sunrise the morning of our river tour. We are finally out of the dull, blown out skies of the desert.



	Our royal yacht , which the punk guides promised was the best around. The benches were made from rough-cut 2x4s.



	A male weaver bird busily making his nest. The females pick a mate based on the quality of the home.



	Palm wine in the process of fermentation. Just let your mind wonder what critters live in those bottles. Its all protein right?

Gambia is essentially a strip of land along the river surrounded by Senegal with a main road on the north and south. We took the north route and were at the resort beaches near Banjul within a day, and that was with us being pulled into the police station for questions about our visas.

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Tambacounda, Senegal

2009-10-09T14:27:00.001+11:00

Rob's Blog- Tambacounda, Senegal

Tambacounda, Senegal

Finished with Mali, our next country was The Gambia but we had to travel through Senegal first to get there. Before that though, we had to stop in Tambacounda to buy a new battery and fix the alternator, again.



	Walking around town we came across the local hair salon. I really needed a haircut but the electricity was out so no chance for a buzz.



	We also came across the shoe graveyard, where all the soles of shoes go to rest and be reborn.



	We are dissecting the car to trace out its electrical problem. We also had a visitor who invited himself to one of our chairs in the shade.



	We had to move the spare tire to the roof because all the bouncing around on the roads ripped the top door hinge off.



	The bush taxis waiting to run people across the Sabi border crossing from Vélingara, Senegal to Basse Santa Su, Gambia. Notice the flat tire on the blue one.



	This is the main road that those rather beaten taxis travel. How come every border crossing in Africa has an absolutely dismal road?



	This is nothing like the US/Mexico border crossing is it? It seemed we had to wait just as long though.

We made it in and then out of Senegal without a major problem. A Gambia border guard did catch each of us for a $30 bribe though but through a fluke, he ended up getting caught for it!

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Malaria in Bamako

2009-10-06T08:26:00.001+11:00

Malaria in Bamako

Bamako was still a two day drive away so we stopped in Ségou at Teriya Bugu for a little native game viewing and some more great food. The next morning we started for Bamako and made it there just as David came down with malaria.



	At Teriya Bugu they had a lot of rehabilitated indigenous animals. This Black Crowned Crane was my favorite.



	I also loved hearing all the peacock calls during the day. It made the place sound like a real jungle.



	Then there was my pal the desert tortoise. He was the only critter not able to run away from me when I went to give him a hug.



	I love seeing the old petrol stations being used for shade by the black market sellers.



	Then we got to Bamako and for three days we waited for David's fever to break. Luckily, Peta carried a round of malaria treatment with her. Our hotel pool was the only picture I took while there.



	The next night we shared our campsite with the cows. It was nice to be back in the bush with The Captain in top form.



	I am not sure but I think this was a cemetery and the pieces of slate were headstones. The whole field was covered with them.

This was our last day in Mali, which turned out to be the second most photographed country on our trip (Gabon was the most). The next blog we will be in Senegal replacing the battery our alternator fried.

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Djenné, Mali

2009-10-02T15:40:00.001+10:00

Rob's Blog- Djenné, Mali

Djenné, Mali

Djenné has been a place I have always wanted to see but never knew where it was. The reason for wanting to go was The Great Mosque, which is probably the second most recognizable structure in Africa after the Pyramids.



	This is The Great Mosque and is the largest mud structure in the world.



	A backlit shot of the main minaret.



	These lovely little children were the bane of our existence while camping in Djenné. They would not stop asking us to buy their junk. They even ambushed Rasa coming out of the tent at 6am.



	No family ever has the excuse that they cannot travel with children. This couple was circumnavigating Africa in this beast with their 3 and 5 olds.



	The call to prayer.



	Overlooking the city island of Djenné with the mosque on the horizon.



	A typical alleyway with the raw sewage running through it.

Happy to see the mosque, we were a bit sad at not being able to get inside (wee actually did not want to pay the high bribe to sneak in). From here we are driving to Bamako with a quick stop at Teriya Bugu sanctuary.

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Mopti, Mali

2009-09-29T17:32:00.001+10:00

Rob's Blog- Mopti, Mali

Mopti, Mali

Mopti is the port city hub where you catch boats to/from Timbuktu, Gao or Bamako. Sévaré is just down the road so we stayed two more nights at Mac's Refuge and just did a river day trip in Mopti from there.



	This is a traditional fishing boat and oar that the locals use here.



	Here is a very cramped ferry boat, chickens and all, arriving from Timbuktu. You should see the rush of taxi boats to unload everyone.



	They say the fishing here is superb, an endless bounty of free food. Too bad the fish live in such fetid water.



	The fishing bounty out of the water, in full light.



	I have never enjoyed soap bubbles as much as this little girl.



	It is flood season so the river is right up to the houses.



	Sunset on the river with a child poling his boat.

The heat is still oppressive so a fan room with breakfast at Mac's was a great treat. Despite the recent rain sprinkle and extra humidity we are heading back into the desert to see my longtime dream destination of Djenné.

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Dogon Country Day #3

2009-09-25T14:35:00.000+10:00

Rob's Blog- Dogon Country Day #3

Dogon Country Day #3

This post is titled Day #3 but it is actually about our fifth day here, I condensed it down somewhat. Our last days were spent exploring the villages at the bottom of the plateau as we made our way back to Bandiagara.



	This is an abandoned Tellem village from the 14th century. This tribe preceded the Dogon and built their homes into the cliff sides for protection against attackers from the plains.



	Here you can see the difference in design as the old buildings are contrasted with the new granaries. This is from Ireli Village.



	A woman selling some yogurt-like substance in Tireli Village.



	A small girl selling peanut butter in the Sanga market.



	The indigo dye vats of Pelou Village. This style of clothing is their art form of acclaim and, we are told, a must have. We passed.



	For about $2 USD you can feed the crocodile. A baby goat cost only $20 but we thought a chicken was sufficient. This was in Amani Village.



	This was typical of the plains below. We were told that the sand has increased in recent years. Climate change or overgrazing?

Dogon country has been another highlight of this trip and we went a bit crazy with buying artwork here; David was ready to throw our bags out. Despite this, all of our gear made it to Mopti, our next stop.

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Dogon Country Day #2

2009-09-22T11:53:00.001+10:00

Rob's Blog- Dogon Country Day #2

Dogon Country Day #2

Today was spent walking to the nearby villages of Gogoli, Bongo and Ogol; all on top of the plateau. It was remarkable to see such civilization carved out of the sold rock.



	The edge of the world; Rasa and David overlooking the millet fields.



	A view of the stone buildings in Sanga. The locals are harvesting teff, a smaller sized grass grain.



	This is how all those rocks are cut for the houses in the above photo. A lot of sweat and brawn.



	Overlooking the village of Gogoli, perched on a rock outcrop.



	The trophy case of a family home in Ogol village.



	This is where the future is told by genet cats lured to work with peanuts. Depending where they leave footprints determines your outcome.



	Then there was the local brewery with today's special of millet beer by the plastic jug-full.

We managed to walk around four villages today without stepping on any sacred spots thanks to our excellent guide. As interesting as this was, the highlight comes tomorrow when we visit all the villages below and built into the cliff walls.

Robert J Kent Jr- robjkentjr@gmail.com
Environmental Resource Policy Adviser
www.R ob R asa.com
Voice Mail: +1 (631) 458-1119
Skype ID: rob-rasa
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Dogon Country Day #1

2009-09-18T22:52:00.001+10:00

Rob's Blog- Dogon Country Day #1

Dogon Country Day #1

After a nice respite in Sévaré, we entered Dogon country. This is an amazing community of villages built on top of and into stone plateaus, especially known for its rich culture.



	In Bandiagara, we drove past this interesting hospital. Notice the wooden doors, just one of the many craftworks the Dogon are known for.



	This is an overlook of Songo, the first village we came to.



	A closer look at the mud houses, granaries, and mosque in the village.



	This is what Songo is famous for though. These wall paintings are done every three years as part of the circumcision ritual for young boys entering manhood. These paintings are to contain the released and dangerous nyama (life force) of the dead.



	This village also has had by far the most aesthetically pleasing granaries.



	Rasa with her two escorts who, while speaking French, talk badly about all the tourists.



	These are genet cats. They are not treated too nicely in this village but in the next one, are considered Gods.

We just stopped in Songo on the way to Sanga, where we spent three nights. Tomorrow we are going to see the edge of the world, have our future told, and drink some millet beer.

Robert J Kent Jr- robjkentjr@gmail.com
Environmental Resource Policy Adviser
www.R ob R asa.com
Voice Mail: +1 (631) 458-1119
Skype ID: rob-rasa

Contact | Support Us | Home | Books