Life from abroad

Saint-Louis

2009-11-16T10:41:00.001+11:00

Rob's Blog- Saint-Louis

Saint-Louis

Saint-Louis was one of the first European settlements in West Africa and the capital of Senegal and Mauritania at one point. Those must have been the days because now it is a colourful but sleepy town that had some great beach camping.



	This is the bridge across the lagoon at high tide. The Zebra Bar is just by that tower on the left.



	We started to see an abundance of birdlife here, with me finally getting a decent shot of flamingos.



	I spent fifteen minutes terrorizing the crab trying to get this picture.



	We saw all sorts of strange relationships in Senegal and Gambia but this one beat them all.



	The main bridge on to the island of Saint-Louis. This was only one part of the town that could have used a new coat of paint.



	It never hurts to ask.



	The beauty and color of an alleyway in Saint-Louis

It was so nice to have cool nights and comfortable days again, especially on such a beautiful beach. Our next destination is the bird watching mecca of Oiseaux du Djoudj National Park before doing the worst border crossing in all of Africa.

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Finishing the Dakar Rally

2009-10-30T20:46:00.001+11:00

Rob's Blog- Finishing the Dakar Rally

Finishing the Dakar Rally

We crossed back into Senegal and spent one night at Popenguine before going to Dakar. After crawling in traffic for hours to get to the airport, we decided to have lunch and head to Lac Rose to sleep.



	Welcome to Kaolack, officially the dirtiest city in all of Africa.



	Nothing like a fresh oyster respite before heading back out in the gnarling traffic. Thinking we were smart, we took some back streets only to get hopelessly lost in the suburbs of Dakar.



	We finally made it just before sunset to the lake. Lac Rose is where the Dakar Rally finishes up and is known for the colour of its water. At certain times of the year, it will be a brilliant light pink. Now is not the time.



	The salt quarry is how all the people are employed here in the off season. They pull mountains of the stuff out of the water.



	All packed up and ready for export. Think twice before shaking that container of sea salt next time.



	They scrape the salt off the bottom of the lake and fill up the boats.



	The wind picked up and caught these kids out on the salt flats.

We were a bit sad at not getting to see the famous slave islands off Dakar but we got over it as soon as we were back on the open road. Our next stop is the very Carib city of Saint-Louis.

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Sukuta 'beach' Camping

2009-10-16T22:58:00.001+11:00

Rob's Blog- Sukuta 'beach' Camping

Sukuta 'beach' Camping

We made it to Sukuta Camping, near the beach resorts of Serrekunda, and collapsed for a week. Other than our daytrip to Abuko Nature Reserve, I did not take many pictures but let me assure you that we did eat like kings at all the fancy expat restaurants.



	The perfect holiday beach but it is the night time activities that make the tourists change their return tickets. Let us just say we learned something new about foreign females and strapping locals.



	The hiking trail through the nature reserve. We were told not to linger on the walkway because of crocodiles.



	One of several 2m (6ft) long monitor lizards that scared us to death while walking through the forest. This guy was just a 1m (3ft) baby.



	I am almost certain this is a Red Colobus Monkey but it sure looks like a baby chimpanzee.



	If I only had a macro lens these bugs would have been the highlight of my trip. Their colors were absolutely stunning.



	Love must be in the air with the camp dogs. Can you guess which one is Lilliput and which one is Adonis?



	This is Dean and the bike he has ridden from South Africa to The Gambia. The night he arrived, we went out with his mercenary friends from Sierra Leone. The rest of that story stays forever in the many bars of Serrenkunda we visited.

Just so glad to be speaking English, eating great food, and sleeping in cool weather again, this was longest we stayed in one spot for the whole trip. Sad to leave, we set out for Dakar, Senegal and passed through the dirtiest city of our trip (a week of firsts).

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Janjanbureh (Georgetown)

2009-10-13T13:38:00.000+11:00

Rob's Blog- Janjanbureh (Georgetown)

Janjanbureh (Georgetown)

After exchanging some US dollars in Basse (the first place to exchange them at a fair rate), we made a stop on the island of Georgetown. Except for all the punk kids, who claim to be guides and do not leave you in peace, the place was worth at least one night of looking around and a quick trip down the river to see some of those rare, fabled birds of the area.



	A welcome sign to The Gambia with a nice reminder that this former British colony now drives on the right side of the road.



	This ferry uses a cable to pull itself across the river. I wondered where we would end up if it broke.



	Another spider bite that looks a lot worse than it is.



	Sunrise the morning of our river tour. We are finally out of the dull, blown out skies of the desert.



	Our royal yacht , which the punk guides promised was the best around. The benches were made from rough-cut 2x4s.



	A male weaver bird busily making his nest. The females pick a mate based on the quality of the home.



	Palm wine in the process of fermentation. Just let your mind wonder what critters live in those bottles. Its all protein right?

Gambia is essentially a strip of land along the river surrounded by Senegal with a main road on the north and south. We took the north route and were at the resort beaches near Banjul within a day, and that was with us being pulled into the police station for questions about our visas.

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Tambacounda, Senegal

2009-10-09T14:27:00.001+11:00

Rob's Blog- Tambacounda, Senegal

Tambacounda, Senegal

Finished with Mali, our next country was The Gambia but we had to travel through Senegal first to get there. Before that though, we had to stop in Tambacounda to buy a new battery and fix the alternator, again.



	Walking around town we came across the local hair salon. I really needed a haircut but the electricity was out so no chance for a buzz.



	We also came across the shoe graveyard, where all the soles of shoes go to rest and be reborn.



	We are dissecting the car to trace out its electrical problem. We also had a visitor who invited himself to one of our chairs in the shade.



	We had to move the spare tire to the roof because all the bouncing around on the roads ripped the top door hinge off.



	The bush taxis waiting to run people across the Sabi border crossing from Vélingara, Senegal to Basse Santa Su, Gambia. Notice the flat tire on the blue one.



	This is the main road that those rather beaten taxis travel. How come every border crossing in Africa has an absolutely dismal road?



	This is nothing like the US/Mexico border crossing is it? It seemed we had to wait just as long though.

We made it in and then out of Senegal without a major problem. A Gambia border guard did catch each of us for a $30 bribe though but through a fluke, he ended up getting caught for it!

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Malaria in Bamako

2009-10-06T08:26:00.001+11:00

Malaria in Bamako

Bamako was still a two day drive away so we stopped in Ségou at Teriya Bugu for a little native game viewing and some more great food. The next morning we started for Bamako and made it there just as David came down with malaria.



	At Teriya Bugu they had a lot of rehabilitated indigenous animals. This Black Crowned Crane was my favorite.



	I also loved hearing all the peacock calls during the day. It made the place sound like a real jungle.



	Then there was my pal the desert tortoise. He was the only critter not able to run away from me when I went to give him a hug.



	I love seeing the old petrol stations being used for shade by the black market sellers.



	Then we got to Bamako and for three days we waited for David's fever to break. Luckily, Peta carried a round of malaria treatment with her. Our hotel pool was the only picture I took while there.



	The next night we shared our campsite with the cows. It was nice to be back in the bush with The Captain in top form.



	I am not sure but I think this was a cemetery and the pieces of slate were headstones. The whole field was covered with them.

This was our last day in Mali, which turned out to be the second most photographed country on our trip (Gabon was the most). The next blog we will be in Senegal replacing the battery our alternator fried.

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Djenné, Mali

2009-10-02T15:40:00.001+10:00

Rob's Blog- Djenné, Mali

Djenné, Mali

Djenné has been a place I have always wanted to see but never knew where it was. The reason for wanting to go was The Great Mosque, which is probably the second most recognizable structure in Africa after the Pyramids.



	This is The Great Mosque and is the largest mud structure in the world.



	A backlit shot of the main minaret.



	These lovely little children were the bane of our existence while camping in Djenné. They would not stop asking us to buy their junk. They even ambushed Rasa coming out of the tent at 6am.



	No family ever has the excuse that they cannot travel with children. This couple was circumnavigating Africa in this beast with their 3 and 5 olds.



	The call to prayer.



	Overlooking the city island of Djenné with the mosque on the horizon.



	A typical alleyway with the raw sewage running through it.

Happy to see the mosque, we were a bit sad at not being able to get inside (wee actually did not want to pay the high bribe to sneak in). From here we are driving to Bamako with a quick stop at Teriya Bugu sanctuary.

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Mopti, Mali

2009-09-29T17:32:00.001+10:00

Rob's Blog- Mopti, Mali

Mopti, Mali

Mopti is the port city hub where you catch boats to/from Timbuktu, Gao or Bamako. Sévaré is just down the road so we stayed two more nights at Mac's Refuge and just did a river day trip in Mopti from there.



	This is a traditional fishing boat and oar that the locals use here.



	Here is a very cramped ferry boat, chickens and all, arriving from Timbuktu. You should see the rush of taxi boats to unload everyone.



	They say the fishing here is superb, an endless bounty of free food. Too bad the fish live in such fetid water.



	The fishing bounty out of the water, in full light.



	I have never enjoyed soap bubbles as much as this little girl.



	It is flood season so the river is right up to the houses.



	Sunset on the river with a child poling his boat.

The heat is still oppressive so a fan room with breakfast at Mac's was a great treat. Despite the recent rain sprinkle and extra humidity we are heading back into the desert to see my longtime dream destination of Djenné.

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Dogon Country Day #3

2009-09-25T14:35:00.000+10:00

Rob's Blog- Dogon Country Day #3

Dogon Country Day #3

This post is titled Day #3 but it is actually about our fifth day here, I condensed it down somewhat. Our last days were spent exploring the villages at the bottom of the plateau as we made our way back to Bandiagara.



	This is an abandoned Tellem village from the 14th century. This tribe preceded the Dogon and built their homes into the cliff sides for protection against attackers from the plains.



	Here you can see the difference in design as the old buildings are contrasted with the new granaries. This is from Ireli Village.



	A woman selling some yogurt-like substance in Tireli Village.



	A small girl selling peanut butter in the Sanga market.



	The indigo dye vats of Pelou Village. This style of clothing is their art form of acclaim and, we are told, a must have. We passed.



	For about $2 USD you can feed the crocodile. A baby goat cost only $20 but we thought a chicken was sufficient. This was in Amani Village.



	This was typical of the plains below. We were told that the sand has increased in recent years. Climate change or overgrazing?

Dogon country has been another highlight of this trip and we went a bit crazy with buying artwork here; David was ready to throw our bags out. Despite this, all of our gear made it to Mopti, our next stop.

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Dogon Country Day #2

2009-09-22T11:53:00.001+10:00

Rob's Blog- Dogon Country Day #2

Dogon Country Day #2

Today was spent walking to the nearby villages of Gogoli, Bongo and Ogol; all on top of the plateau. It was remarkable to see such civilization carved out of the sold rock.



	The edge of the world; Rasa and David overlooking the millet fields.



	A view of the stone buildings in Sanga. The locals are harvesting teff, a smaller sized grass grain.



	This is how all those rocks are cut for the houses in the above photo. A lot of sweat and brawn.



	Overlooking the village of Gogoli, perched on a rock outcrop.



	The trophy case of a family home in Ogol village.



	This is where the future is told by genet cats lured to work with peanuts. Depending where they leave footprints determines your outcome.



	Then there was the local brewery with today's special of millet beer by the plastic jug-full.

We managed to walk around four villages today without stepping on any sacred spots thanks to our excellent guide. As interesting as this was, the highlight comes tomorrow when we visit all the villages below and built into the cliff walls.

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Dogon Country Day #1

2009-09-18T22:52:00.001+10:00

Rob's Blog- Dogon Country Day #1

Dogon Country Day #1

After a nice respite in Sévaré, we entered Dogon country. This is an amazing community of villages built on top of and into stone plateaus, especially known for its rich culture.



	In Bandiagara, we drove past this interesting hospital. Notice the wooden doors, just one of the many craftworks the Dogon are known for.



	This is an overlook of Songo, the first village we came to.



	A closer look at the mud houses, granaries, and mosque in the village.



	This is what Songo is famous for though. These wall paintings are done every three years as part of the circumcision ritual for young boys entering manhood. These paintings are to contain the released and dangerous nyama (life force) of the dead.



	This village also has had by far the most aesthetically pleasing granaries.



	Rasa with her two escorts who, while speaking French, talk badly about all the tourists.



	These are genet cats. They are not treated too nicely in this village but in the next one, are considered Gods.

We just stopped in Songo on the way to Sanga, where we spent three nights. Tomorrow we are going to see the edge of the world, have our future told, and drink some millet beer.

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From the Sahara to Sévaré

2009-09-15T18:49:00.001+10:00

Rob's Blog- From the Sahara to Sévaré

From the Sahara to Sévaré

We could not resist taking a look at the road to Algeria and venture into the Sahara Desert. We did not make it far before we thought twice about continuing so we decided to head for refuge in Sévaré.



	The last outcroppings of habitation before setting out on 2,500 km (1,500 mi) of sand and heat until you reach the Mediterranean Sea.



	As you can see there really was not a road to follow. I would hate to lose our way after a sand storm.



	Back across the Niger River, the scenery changes completely and looks somewhat more hospitable. I fear without the river, the desert would just continue to migrate further south.



	We had our first serious car trouble with the alternator failing. Luckily for us, Mac recommended a crack bush mechanic. He end up smashing off a cover and jerry rigged some wires. Worked great until Senegal when our battery blew up because of overcharging.



	Sunset and some roosting egrets at the edge of Sévaré.



	We ended up staying four nights at Mac's Refuge, two on the roof. Not only did he help us out with great guide advice but his company was a welcomed diversion from the touts.



	But the biggest reason we stayed was for the food. He has an ethnically themed dinner every night of the week. Then there was the included breakfast; all of it prepared from local ingredients.

Mac's family was the first to settle in Dogon country and he grew up in Mali so he knows the ins and outs well. Anyone going to see Mopti, Djenne, or Dogon country (our next stop) should start their journey at Mac's Refuge.

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Eating sand

2009-09-11T16:02:00.000+10:00

Rob's Blog- Eating sand

Eating sand

For the last day of Ramadan we were invited to share the meal with two families. Both turned out to be an interesting experience.



	The hotel guard noticed we loved food so invited us to his house for a meal with his family. Here is the mom preparing it in the kitchen area.



	Luckily, there were an abundance of children to help with the hard work of pounding the millet and spices.



	Here is the delicious looking pounded millet. How come every staple meal in Africa has to be this stick-to-your-ribs paste?



	Oh, but did the little one love it! I guess if you have never licked the mixing spoon for cupcakes this would be the next best thing.



	There is the final meal. And every bite was crunchy with sand.



	The other meal was a freshly carved lamb at the men only tent. This gathering was much more lively and tasty than what the women were eating. It might have been the three bottles of whiskey though.



	Nothing like fresh wood fired bread to nurse a hangover. Although, I was just happy to have bread again now that Ramadan was over.

The party was well worth the extra night in the baking desert. The next day we left Timbuktu for Sevare but not before a quick drive through the Sahara Desert and discovered our alternator was about to die.

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Timbuktu

2009-09-08T20:19:00.001+10:00

Rob's Blog- Timbuktu

Timbuktu

Whenever I lost something as a small child, I would ask my mom where it disappeared to and was always crestfallen to hear it had gone to Timbuktu. When we arrived at this fabled city, you can only imagine my anticipation to finally find all those long lost socks of mine.



	No PlayStation here to keep kids busy, they must entertain themselves with whatever is available.



	Catching a midday nap in the shady comfort of the breezeway.



	A Tuareg with his polished metal pipe. He has a hand; it is just inside the sleeve of his tagelmust.



	One of the three great mosques in this World Heritage city. This one is Sankore Mosque.



	The second of the great mosques recalling Timbuktu's golden age is Djingareyber Mosque.



	The minaret of Djingareyber Mosque. The sticks are used like a ladder when re-surfacing the mud walls.



	Here is our tent on TOP of the hotel roof. It was too hot to sleep inside so up here was marginally better with the slight breeze.

It is a surprisingly small city and we easily saw everything in two nights, including a day driving into the desert. We ended up staying a third night because we were invited to end fast on the last night of Ramadan with two sheep and a bottle of Johnnie Walker.

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Hombori Tondo Mesa

2009-09-04T10:45:00.001+10:00

Hombori Tondo Mesa

It was a very long, hot and dusty two day drive from Gao to Timbuktu but the scenery more than made up for it. We mostly passed through Hombori, the highest point in Mali and world record holder for the hottest 24-hour average temperature at 33°C (92°F) with humidity!



	This is the first view of Hombori Mesa coming from Gao.



	Just your local desert antique shop selling skis and snowboards.



	A little guest watching our car while we enjoy a hot beer in the shade.



	A lone child on the plains.



	The landmark for the turnoff to Timbuktu.



	Three donkeys waiting for someone to rescue them from the island.



	A Tuareg and Fulani on the ferry to Timbuktu. The one on the right caught me just as I was taking his photo.

We had good luck with the road not being flooded out by the seasonal lakes. With the quick ferry ride we made it to Timbuktu by the end of the second day.

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Gao: The edge of civilization

2009-09-01T18:03:00.001+10:00

Gao: The edge of civilization

Gao is way past Timbuktu, which is in the middle of nowhere as it is. And this remoteness reflects in the poor attitudes of the police when we had to deal with them.



	Gao is the last city before the Sahara Desert so it is hot that even the poor camels need to have a dip.



	We are coming down into Gao and the Niger flood plain. Such a contrast from the desert.



	The river is in flood now so all those low villages are stranded.



	One can either walk across the rice paddies or take a boat into town.



	The last thing you want to do is sleep inside without a fan but if you sleep outside, you need a mosquito net.



	Here is a wall in the process of being resurfaced. The secret to this is mixing sand, mud, and cow dung for extra stickiness.



	A mound of melons being prepared for shipping to Niamey and some dirty looks as I take the picture.

After we were harassed by the touts, the police held our passports for a $20 ransom. After one night in the frying pan, we had an amazing drive to Timbuktu (and who has never wanted to go there!).

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Frontiere du Mali

2009-08-28T18:14:00.001+10:00

Rob's Blog- Frontiere du Mali

Frontiere du Mali

It was a two day drive to our next destination in Mali, a little out-of-the-way town called Gao. Before getting there we spent a brief night in Ayorou, just on the Niger side of the border.



	I must admit, I have a fascination with anything birds so it warmed my heart to see so many chickens going for a ride.



	Even the goats know it is hot. They are all hiding in the little bit of shade they can find.



	Another empty pool, or was it? This one just happened to have three baby crocodiles in it. You can just make them out in the shade.



	The travails of Africa. This, we think, was a spider bite. As bad as it looks, David's leg is even worse in three weeks time.



	A good ol' fashion cattle crossing.



	Welcome to Mali, where even the road has lines.



	A village of desert dwellers. A very tough life indeed.

Tomorrow night we will be in Gao, only the second place we have had to pay a bribe. Despite that fun experience, it would still not be worth the trip for anyone to travel to the edge of the earth.

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Niamey, the capital

2009-08-25T14:41:00.000+10:00

Rob's Blog- Niamey, the capital

Niamey, the capital

Another capital city, another $200 visa (visas are turning out to be our biggest expense!). After that shock we thoroughly enjoyed all the fine Expat hotels and draft beer on offer.



	We started out our stay with a nice relaxing river cruise but we did not make it far before the motor died and we had to be poled back.



	After 10am the sun was up and we could not sit around waiting for these guys to fix the blasted thing. We decided to come back and try it again the next morning while it was still cool.



	Sitting around watching life go by, I got a lot of great pictures.



	Watching them offload all the pumpkins from Nigeria was the most interesting. This is big business here.



	Ah, the highlight of our day. Relaxing with a very cold draft beer and watching the sunset of the Niger River.



	Almost every person at this hotel is a foreigner working with an aid agency. After 10pm the place was empty when everyone left in their Land Cruisers to catch the weekend flight back to Paris.



	These were some dye pits used for clothing. All the waste water drains right out into the river. At least the fish are colorful.

Niamey was a comfortable city in the heat, out hotel even had a pool with water! With our visas in order, we should be at the Mali border within two days or so with good roads.

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Nigerien Giraffes

2009-08-21T13:00:00.001+10:00

Rob's Blog- Nigerien Giraffes

Nigerien Giraffes

This is the last herd of wild giraffes in the Sahel region with only about 200 remaining, but increasing in numbers. This was a highlight of the trip, not so much for seeing them but for how close they come up to you.



	This is a giraffe hug.



	Here is the big male towering above his two females and children.



	Ever wonder how a giraffe drinks?



	This was taken just after she got spooked. Her hoof is the size of my head and she was breathing down my neck. Exhilarating!



	The key to this conservation program is that the locals receive money from the tourists visiting the giraffes. Without that, they would be lunch.



	Another advantage is that the giraffes do not compete for food with the goats and so the herders are all happy.



	Some Ox Peckers (another endangered species) looking for ticks on the donkey's back.

This heard migrates seasonally from the drier highlands along the Dallol Bosso valley to Kouré, which is 80km southeast of Niamey and where these pictures were taken. This is also our next stop to see how well the Expat development world really lives.

Robert J Kent Jr- robjkentjr@gmail.com
Water Resource Policy Adviser
www.R ob R asa.com
Voice Mail: +1 (631) 458-1119
Skype ID: rob-rasa
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